First Week Home with Your New Dog: The Complete Dog Care Guide

Bringing home a new dog is exciting, overwhelming, and life-changing all at once. Whether you’ve adopted a puppy, an adult dog, or a senior companion, the first week sets the foundation for your entire relationship. This comprehensive guide will walk you through every aspect of those crucial first seven days, helping you create a smooth, stress-free transition for both you and your new family member.

Important Veterinary Disclaimer: The information in this guide is designed to be educational and is not a replacement for professional veterinary care. We are not veterinarians. Always consult your qualified veterinarian with any questions about your pet’s health, or before administering any new medication or starting a travel plan.

The 3-3-3 Rule: Understanding Your Dog’s Adjustment Period

Before diving into the specifics, it’s essential to understand the widely recognized “3-3-3 Rule” of dog adoption:

First 3 Days: Your dog is overwhelmed and scared. They may not eat, drink normally, or show their true personality. They’re decompressing from shelter stress and adjusting to completely new surroundings.

First 3 Weeks: Your dog starts settling in and showing more of their real personality. You’ll see their quirks, preferences, and any behavior challenges begin to emerge.

First 3 Months: Your dog finally feels at home. They’re comfortable, bonded with you, and displaying their authentic self.

Keep this timeline in mind throughout the first week. What you see on day one is not necessarily who your dog truly is.

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Part 1: Before You Bring Your Dog Home

The Essential Supplies Checklist

Having everything ready before your dog arrives eliminates stress and allows you to focus entirely on your new companion. Here’s your complete shopping list:

Food and Water Supplies

• Food and water bowls: Stainless steel or ceramic are best (easy to clean, don’t harbor bacteria like plastic). Get bowls appropriate for your dog’s size.
• Dog food: Ask the shelter or previous owner what food your dog has been eating. Purchase at least a week’s supply of the same brand to avoid digestive upset. You can transition to a different food gradually later.
• Food storage container: Airtight containers keep food fresh and prevent pests.
• Treats: Start with small, soft training treats. Avoid anything too rich initially as your dog’s stomach adjusts.

Sleeping and Comfort

• Dog bed: Choose one that’s washable and appropriately sized. Your dog should be able to stretch out fully. Consider having multiple beds for different rooms.
• Crate: If you plan to crate train, get a crate that allows your dog to stand up, turn around, and lie down comfortably. For puppies, choose one with a divider so you can adjust the space as they grow.
• Crate bedding: Washable blankets, towels, or crate pads.
• Blankets: Familiar-smelling blankets provide comfort. Ask the shelter if you can take home a blanket that smells like their previous environment.

Safety and Identification

• Collar: Flat buckle collar that fits with two fingers of space underneath. Have your dog wear it at all times.
• ID tag: Immediately attach a tag with your phone number. This is your dog’s first line of defense if they escape.
• Leash: A standard 4-6 foot leash (not retractable for the first week—you need more control).
• Microchip registration: If your dog has a microchip, register it in your name immediately. If not, schedule an appointment with your vet to have one implanted.
• Harness (optional but recommended): Many dogs do better with a front-clip or back-clip harness than a collar alone, especially if they pull.

Grooming Supplies

• Brush or comb: Appropriate for your dog’s coat type.
• Dog shampoo: Gentle, pH-balanced formula made specifically for dogs.
• Nail clippers or grinder: Get your dog used to having paws handled early.
• Ear cleaner: Veterinary-approved solution for routine ear care.
• Toothbrush and toothpaste: Dog-specific dental products (never use human toothpaste).
• Towels: Designate a few old towels specifically for dog use.

Cleaning and Waste Management

• Enzymatic cleaner: Essential for accident cleanup. Enzymatic formulas break down urine and eliminate odors completely.
• Poop bags: Buy in bulk. You’ll need them for every single walk.
• Paper towels: Stock up—accidents happen, especially in the first week.
• Baby gates: To restrict access to certain areas of your home.
• Puppy pads (if needed): Useful for puppies or dogs still learning house training, or for emergency indoor potty areas.

Toys and Enrichment

• Variety of toys: Start with 2-3 different types to learn your dog’s preferences:
  • Chew toys (durable rubber toys like Kongs)
  • Plush toys (for gentle chewers)
  • Interactive puzzle toys
  • Rope toys for tug
  • Balls for fetch
• Kong or similar food-dispensing toy: Perfect for keeping dogs occupied and creating positive associations.

Health and First Aid

• Basic first aid kit: Include gauze, bandages, antiseptic wipes, tweezers, and your vet’s phone number.
• Any medications: If your dog comes with prescribed medications, ensure you have adequate supply.
• Flea and tick prevention: Consult your vet about the best product for your area.

Optional But Helpful Items

• Long training lead (15-30 feet): For practicing recall in a safe, controlled environment.
• Treat pouch: Keeps treats accessible during training.
• Dog gate or playpen: For confining your dog safely.
• Car safety restraint: Harness or crate for safe car travel.
• Grooming table or non-slip mat: Makes grooming easier and safer.

Budget Planning: What Will This Cost?

Initial Setup Costs: Expect to spend $300-$600 on essential supplies, depending on your dog’s size and what you choose to purchase. Don’t feel pressured to buy everything at once—prioritize food, bowls, collar, leash, ID tag, bed, and cleaning supplies for the first week.

Ongoing Monthly Costs: Budget $100-$300 per month for food, treats, preventive medications, and routine care. Larger dogs cost more to feed and maintain.

First-Year Veterinary Costs: Plan for $500-$1,500 in the first year, including initial exam, vaccinations, spay/neuter if needed, heartworm test, fecal exam, and preventive medications.

Emergency Fund: Set aside at least $1,000-$2,000 for unexpected veterinary emergencies. Pet insurance is worth considering and costs $30-$70 per month depending on coverage.

Dog-Proofing Your Home

Before your dog arrives, walk through your home from a dog’s-eye view. Here’s what to address:

General Safety Hazards

• Electrical cords: Tape them to baseboards or use cord covers. Some dogs love to chew cords, which can be fatal.
• Toxic plants: Remove or elevate plants like lilies, azaleas, sago palms, tulips, oleander, and many others. Check the ASPCA’s complete list online.
• Medications and vitamins: Store all human medications in secure cabinets. Even one ibuprofen can be dangerous for dogs.
• Cleaning products: Move all chemicals, detergents, and cleaning supplies to high cabinets or use childproof locks.
• Small objects: Pick up coins, buttons, hair ties, children’s small toys, and anything else a dog might swallow.
• Trash cans: Use cans with locking lids or store them in a cabinet. Dogs can ingest dangerous items like cooked bones, chocolate wrappers, or spoiled food from garbage.
• Toilet lids: Keep them closed to prevent drinking from toilets (especially if you use toilet bowl cleaners).

Room-by-Room Checklist

Kitchen:

• Secure trash cans
• Store food in sealed containers or closed cabinets
• Remove toxic foods from accessible areas (chocolate, grapes, onions, xylitol, macadamia nuts)
• Check that lower cabinets latch securely
• Put away dish towels and oven mitts (common chewing targets)

Living Room:

• Secure or remove breakable decorations at tail-wagging height
• Protect furniture corners if you have a rambunctious dog
• Move TV remotes, game controllers, and electronics out of reach
• Check that all plants are dog-safe
• Ensure window blind cords are secured high (strangulation hazard)

Bedrooms:

• Keep closet doors closed (shoes are irresistible to many dogs)
• Store jewelry, accessories, and small items in drawers
• Put laundry in closed hampers
• Keep medications on high surfaces, not nightstands

Bathrooms:

• Secure all medications and toiletries in cabinets
• Keep toilet lids down
• Store razors, cotton swabs, and dental floss out of reach
• Close bathroom doors if possible

Garage/Basement:

• Antifreeze is extremely toxic and tastes sweet to dogs—store it securely and clean any spills immediately
• Secure paint, paint thinner, pesticides, and fertilizers
• Keep tools and sharp objects stored safely
• Ensure your dog cannot access the garage without supervision

Yard and Outdoor Spaces:

• Check fence for gaps, holes, or weak spots. Dogs can escape through surprisingly small spaces.
• Remove toxic plants and landscaping materials like cocoa mulch
• Ensure gates latch securely
• Check for and remove any toxic chemicals, fertilizers, or rat poison
• Remove or secure pool covers (dogs can become trapped underneath)
• Look for any objects that could be choking hazards

Designating Your Dog’s Space

Choose where your dog will spend most of their time, especially initially. Most trainers recommend starting with a smaller, confined area and gradually expanding access as your dog proves reliable.

Create a “home base”: This could be a kitchen, mudroom, or section of your living room. This is where your dog’s crate, bed, food, and water will be. Using baby gates to restrict access helps with house training and prevents your dog from becoming overwhelmed by too much space too soon.

Set up the crate properly: Place the crate in a quiet area where your dog can see family activity but also rest undisturbed. The crate should feel like a cozy den, not isolation. Add comfortable bedding and a blanket over the top and sides to create a cave-like environment (leave the front open for ventilation and visibility).

Quiet zones: Identify areas where your dog can retreat when they need a break from activity or stimulation. This is especially important if you have children or live in a busy household.

Family Meeting: Establishing Rules and Responsibilities

Before your dog arrives, sit down with all family members (including children) and agree on:

House Rules for the Dog:

• Is the dog allowed on furniture? (Decide now and be consistent)
• Which rooms are off-limits?
• Where will the dog sleep at night?
• What words will you use for commands? (Everyone should use the same words—”down” vs. “off,” “come” vs. “here,” etc.)
• Feeding schedule and who’s responsible
• Walking schedule and who’s responsible

Interaction Guidelines:

• How should children interact with the dog?
• What are the rules about disturbing a sleeping or eating dog?
• How will you handle jumping, begging, or other unwanted behaviors?
• Who is responsible for training?

First Week Protocol:

• Agree to keep things calm and quiet
• Limit visitors for at least the first few days
• Establish a schedule and stick to it
• Designate one person as the primary caretaker for consistency

Educating Children

If you have children, preparation is critical for both their safety and the dog’s comfort:

Teach children to:

• Always ask before petting the dog
• Approach slowly and calmly
• Never disturb a dog who’s eating, sleeping, or in their crate
• Recognize warning signs (growling, stiff body, whale eye, lip licking)
• Give the dog space and allow them to come to the child, not the other way around
• Use gentle voices and slow movements
• Never tease, chase, or roughhouse with the dog until you understand their tolerance

Supervise all interactions: Even the gentlest dog can snap if startled, hurt, or overwhelmed. Never leave young children alone with your new dog, even for a moment.

Choosing a Veterinarian

Research and select a veterinarian before bringing your dog home. You’ll need to schedule an appointment within the first few days.

What to look for:

• Convenient location for emergencies
• Hours that work with your schedule
• Good online reviews and recommendations
• Clean, organized facility
• Staff who are friendly and answer questions thoroughly
• Clear pricing and payment options
• Emergency services or partnerships with emergency clinics

Call ahead: Explain that you’re adopting a dog and ask about their new patient process, what to bring, and costs for the initial exam.

Gathering Important Information

Before you leave the shelter, rescue, or breeder, collect:

• Complete medical records and vaccination history
• Spay/neuter certificate
• Microchip number and registration information
• Current diet (brand, amount, frequency)
• Any known medical conditions or medications
• Behavioral information (house training status, known triggers, likes/dislikes)
• Return policy or support offered by the organization

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Part 2: Bringing Your Dog Home

The Car Ride Home

The journey home sets the tone for your relationship. Make it as stress-free as possible.

Safety first: Dogs should never ride loose in a car. Use a crash-tested harness attached to a seatbelt, a secured crate, or a dog car seat for small dogs.

What to bring:

• Leash and collar (already on your dog)
• Paper towels and cleaner (in case of car sickness or accidents)
• Water and a bowl (for longer trips)
• Comfort item from their previous home if available
• Calming music (classical or reggae works well for dogs)

Managing anxiety:

• Keep the car calm and quiet—no loud music or excited chatter
• Drive smoothly, avoiding sudden stops and starts
• Don’t make the ride longer than necessary (skip errands)
• Consider having a passenger sit with the dog to provide comfort
• If your dog shows signs of severe anxiety, remain calm and don’t overreact

If your dog gets car sick:

• This is common and usually improves with time
• Keep windows cracked for fresh air
• Take breaks on longer journeys
• Withhold food 2-3 hours before travel
• Talk to your vet about anti-nausea medication for future trips

The First Moments: Arriving Home

Go straight to the potty spot: Before entering your house, take your dog directly to the area where you want them to eliminate. Stand there quietly for 5-10 minutes. When they go, praise calmly and offer a small treat. This establishes immediately that outside is for bathroom breaks.

Enter the house calmly: No fanfare, no overwhelming greetings. Enter quietly and let your dog begin exploring at their own pace.

Introduce the home base: Take your dog directly to their designated area. Show them their water bowl, let them sniff their bed and crate. Don’t force them into the crate—just let them explore.

Limit the initial exploration: For the first few hours, keep your dog confined to one or two rooms. This prevents overwhelm and makes house training easier. Use baby gates as needed.

Let them decompress: Many dogs need time to simply shut down and process. Don’t be alarmed if your dog finds a corner and lies down for hours. This is normal and healthy.

Meeting Family Members

Humans:

• One at a time, not everyone at once
• Remain calm and speak in quiet, gentle voices
• Let the dog approach each person rather than people approaching the dog
• Sit on the floor at the dog’s level if possible
• Avoid direct eye contact initially (this can be threatening)
• Offer treats without forcing interaction
• No hugging or restraining the dog

Children:

• Extra supervision and strict rules
• Children should remain calm and seated
• Let the dog investigate the child first
• No sudden movements, grabbing, or loud noises
• Short, positive interactions only
• End the meeting before anyone gets overstimulated

Other Pets:

If you have other dogs:

• First meeting should ideally happen on neutral territory (during the adoption process if possible)
• If meeting at home, do initial introduction outside in the yard
• Keep both dogs leashed with loose leashes
• Walk them parallel to each other before allowing face-to-face greetings
• Watch body language carefully (stiff bodies, intense staring, raised hackles are warning signs)
• Keep initial interactions brief (a few minutes)
• Separate them and provide breaks
• Feed them in separate spaces
• Don’t leave them unsupervised together until they’ve established a relationship
• Expect several days to weeks for full integration

If you have cats:

• Keep them completely separated initially
• Let them smell each other under doors
• Feed them on opposite sides of a closed door
• After a few days, allow visual contact through a baby gate
• Never leave them together unsupervised until you’re certain they’re safe together
• Ensure your cat has high escape routes
• Keep the litter box in a dog-free zone
• This process can take weeks to months

The First Night: Setting Up for Success

The first night is often the hardest. Your dog is in a strange place, away from everything familiar. Here’s how to help:

Where should your dog sleep?

If crate training:

• Place the crate in your bedroom so your dog can see and smell you
• This provides security and helps with bonding
• You’ll also hear if they need a bathroom break
• Put a comfortable bed or blanket inside
• Cover the crate partially to create a den-like feeling
• Never force them into the crate or use it as punishment

If not crate training:

• Keep your dog in your bedroom using a dog bed or tether
• Close other bedroom doors and use baby gates as needed
• Remove anything they could chew or destroy
• Be prepared for accidents

Bedtime routine:

• Final potty break right before bed (stay outside until they go)
• Offer a small drink of water
• Quiet, calm energy—no play or excitement
• Lead them to their sleeping spot
• Consider leaving a radio or white noise machine on low
• Leave a nightlight on if they seem anxious in complete darkness

If they cry or whine:

• Wait a few minutes to see if they settle themselves
• If crying continues, they may need a bathroom break (especially puppies)
• Take them directly outside on leash, no talking or playing
• If they don’t potty within 5 minutes, bring them back in
• If they eliminate, offer quiet praise and return them to bed
• Repeat as needed, but don’t make it fun or rewarding beyond the potty praise

What not to do:

• Don’t let them out of the crate/bedroom if they’re just crying for attention (this rewards the behavior)
• Don’t punish or scold them for crying
• Don’t bring them into your bed unless this is your permanent plan (changing this later is difficult)
• Don’t make bathroom breaks exciting or interactive

Managing your expectations:

• Many dogs don’t sleep through the first night—this is completely normal
• Puppies especially will need middle-of-the-night bathroom breaks
• Some dogs adapt immediately while others take weeks
• Consistency is key—stick with your plan

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Part 3: The Daily Routine (Days 1-7)

Why Routine Matters

Dogs thrive on predictability. A consistent routine reduces anxiety, aids in house training, and helps your dog understand what’s expected of them. Establish a schedule on day one and stick to it as closely as possible.

Sample Daily Schedule

This schedule works for adult dogs. Puppies need more frequent bathroom breaks (every 2-3 hours).

6:00-7:00 AM:

• Immediate outside bathroom break (before coffee, before anything)
• Stay outside until they eliminate, then offer praise and treats
• Bring them back inside

7:00-7:30 AM:

• Breakfast (measured amount, same food every day)
• Fresh water
• Quiet time while they digest (no play immediately after eating)

7:30-8:00 AM:

• Another bathroom break
• Brief training session (5-10 minutes)

8:00 AM-12:00 PM:

• Crate time or confined to safe area while you work/do activities
• Leave a food-stuffed Kong or puzzle toy for mental stimulation
• Quiet background noise (radio or TV)

12:00-12:30 PM:

• Bathroom break
• Short walk (10-15 minutes) or play session
• Midday training session (optional)

12:30-5:00 PM:

• Rest period in crate or safe area
• Another Kong or chew toy

5:00-5:30 PM:

• Bathroom break
• Longer walk (20-30 minutes) or active play session

5:30-6:00 PM:

• Dinner (measured amount)
• Fresh water
• Quiet rest time for digestion

6:00-6:30 PM:

• Bathroom break
• Training session

6:30-9:00 PM:

• Family time, supervised freedom in the house
• Gentle play or enrichment activities
• Short bathroom break around 8:00 PM

9:00-10:00 PM:

• Remove water bowl (1-2 hours before bed helps with nighttime accidents)
• Final bathroom break (stay out until they go)
• Settle into sleeping area
• Lights out, everyone settles down

Overnight:

• Puppies may need 1-2 bathroom breaks
• Adult dogs should sleep through after a few nights

Feeding Guidelines

How much to feed:

• Follow the portions listed on your dog food bag as a starting point
• Adjust based on your dog’s age, activity level, and body condition
• You should be able to feel your dog’s ribs without pressing hard, but not see them prominently
• Consult your vet at your first appointment for personalized recommendations

Feeding schedule:

• Puppies under 6 months: 3 meals per day
• Adult dogs: 2 meals per day (morning and evening)
• Senior dogs: 2 meals per day, sometimes more frequent smaller meals
• Feed at the same times every day

Feeding protocol:

• Use a measuring cup for consistency
• Place food bowl in the same spot every time
• Give your dog 15-20 minutes to eat, then remove the bowl (even if not finished)
• No free-feeding (leaving food out all day)—this makes house training nearly impossible
• Wash bowls daily

Water:

• Fresh water available at all times during the day
• Remove water 1-2 hours before bedtime to help with overnight house training
• Wash and refill water bowl daily
• Monitor that your dog is drinking (but not excessively—excessive thirst can indicate health issues)

Treats:

• Keep minimal during the first week
• Use small, pea-sized pieces for training
• Treats should not exceed 10% of daily caloric intake
• Avoid any treats that could cause digestive upset while your dog adjusts

Foods to NEVER feed your dog:

• Chocolate (toxic, potentially fatal)
• Grapes and raisins (kidney failure)
• Onions and garlic (damage red blood cells)
• Xylitol (artificial sweetener—causes liver failure and low blood sugar)
• Macadamia nuts (toxic)
• Avocado (persin is toxic to dogs)
• Cooked bones (splinter and cause blockages)
• Alcohol (extremely dangerous)
• Caffeine (toxic)
• Raw bread dough (expands in stomach, produces alcohol)

House Training Protocol

House training requires patience, consistency, and understanding. Dogs aren’t being “bad” when they have accidents—they simply don’t understand the rules yet.

The basic principle: Prevent accidents and reward correct behavior.

Bathroom break schedule:

• First thing in the morning
• After every meal (15-30 minutes)
• After waking from naps
• After play sessions
• After training sessions
• Before bed
• Puppies: also every 2-3 hours throughout the day

The process:

1. Put on leash (yes, even in your own yard—this creates focus)
2. Take your dog to the same spot every time
3. Use a verbal cue (“go potty,” “do your business,” etc.)
4. Wait quietly—no playing, no distractions
5. The MOMENT they finish eliminating, praise enthusiastically and offer a high-value treat
6. Allow a few minutes of play or exploration as a reward
7. Return inside

Why the leash and designated spot matter:

• Creates a strong association between the location and the behavior
• Prevents your dog from getting distracted
• Helps them understand bathroom time vs. play time
• Makes life easier in bad weather

If an accident happens:

• Interrupt calmly if you catch them in the act (a quick “uh-oh!” or hand clap)
• Immediately take them outside to their spot
• Clean thoroughly with enzymatic cleaner (regular cleaners don’t remove the scent completely)
• Do NOT punish, yell, or rub their nose in it—this only teaches them to fear you and hide when they potty

Why punishment doesn’t work:

• Dogs don’t connect punishment to an earlier action
• Punishing them teaches them that YOU are scary, not that pottying inside is wrong
• They’ll start hiding to potty (behind furniture, in other rooms)
• Fear slows learning

Signs your dog needs to go out:

• Sniffing the ground intensely
• Circling
• Whining or barking at the door
• Walking to the door
• Sudden restlessness
• Leaving the room or heading to a corner

Special challenges:

If your dog was previously house trained but has accidents:

• Medical issues could be at play (urinary tract infection, digestive issues)
• Stress of the transition can cause temporary regression
• Stick to the protocol and be patient
• See your vet if accidents continue beyond the first week

If your dog was never house trained:

• This will take longer—potentially several weeks to months
• Increase supervision dramatically
• Consider using puppy pads as an intermediate step
• Celebrate every single success

Crate training for house training:

• Dogs naturally avoid soiling their sleeping space
• Proper crate training can accelerate house training
• Never leave a dog crated longer than they can hold their bladder
• Puppies: 1 hour per month of age (3-month-old can hold it ~3 hours)
• Adult dogs: 4-6 hours maximum

Exercise and Mental Stimulation

How much exercise does your dog need?

This varies dramatically by breed, age, and individual temperament:

• High-energy breeds (Border Collies, Australian Shepherds, Retrievers): 1-2 hours daily
• Moderate-energy breeds (Beagles, Cocker Spaniels): 45-60 minutes daily
• Low-energy breeds (Bulldogs, Basset Hounds): 30-45 minutes daily
• Puppies: 5 minutes per month of age, twice daily (3-month-old gets two 15-minute sessions)
• Senior dogs: Shorter, more frequent, gentler exercise

During the first week, keep exercise moderate:

• Your dog is stressed and adjusting
• Too much stimulation can be overwhelming
• Focus on short, calm walks
• Save high-energy activities for after they’ve settled in

Types of exercise:

Walks:

• Start with short walks (10-15 minutes)
• Let your dog sniff—this is mentally tiring and important for dogs
• Keep initial walks in quiet areas, not busy streets or dog parks
• Work on loose-leash walking from day one

Play:

• Fetch (if your dog knows it)
• Gentle tug (teach “drop it” first)
• Hide and seek with treats
• Keep play sessions short (10-15 minutes) to avoid overstimulation

Mental stimulation:

• Food puzzle toys
• Snuffle mats (hide treats in fabric folds)
• Basic training exercises
• “Find it” games (hiding treats around the house)
• Frozen Kongs filled with peanut butter or wet food

Why mental stimulation matters:

• 15 minutes of training can tire a dog as much as a 30-minute walk
• Reduces boredom and destructive behavior
• Strengthens your bond
• Builds confidence in anxious dogs

Warning signs of too much exercise:

• Excessive panting that doesn’t resolve quickly
• Limping or stiffness
• Reluctance to continue
• Disorientation
• Very pale or bright red gums

Training Basics for Week One

Goals for the first week:

• Establish trust and connection
• Begin basic communication
• Create positive associations with you
• Start with the absolute fundamentals

Don’t aim for perfection—aim for understanding.

Essential commands to introduce:

1. Name Recognition

• Say your dog’s name in a happy voice
• When they look at you, immediately reward with a treat
• Practice 10-15 times per day in short sessions
• This is the foundation of all other training

2. “Sit”

• Hold a treat close to your dog’s nose
• Slowly move it up and back over their head
• As their head goes up, their bottom goes down
• The moment their bottom touches the ground, say “yes!” and give the treat
• Practice 5-10 times, 2-3 times per day

3. “Come” (recall)

• Say your dog’s name followed by “come” in an enthusiastic voice
• As they move toward you, praise them
• When they reach you, reward generously
• Start in a small space with no distractions
• NEVER call your dog to punish them or do something they dislike

4. “Down”

• Start with your dog in a sit
• Hold a treat at their nose, then move it straight down to the ground
• As they follow, their elbows should lower to the floor
• Say “yes!” and reward immediately
• Some dogs struggle with this—be patient

5. “Leave It”

• Show your dog a treat in your closed fist
• Let them sniff, lick, or paw at your hand
• Wait for them to pull away even slightly
• The moment they stop trying, say “yes!” and give them a different treat
• This teaches impulse control and can be lifesaving

Training principles:

Positive reinforcement:

• Reward desired behaviors immediately (within 1-2 seconds)
• Use treats, praise, or play—whatever your dog loves most
• Never use punishment, yelling, or physical corrections
• Redirect unwanted behaviors and reward alternatives

Keep sessions short:

• 5-10 minutes maximum
• End on a positive note (with success)
• Multiple short sessions daily are better than one long session

Set your dog up for success:

• Start in a quiet, distraction-free environment
• Gradually increase difficulty as your dog succeeds
• If your dog isn’t getting it, you’re moving too fast
• Break behaviors into smaller steps

Be consistent:

• Everyone in the household should use the same words
• Reward every single correct response in the beginning
• Practice daily
• Don’t allow behaviors one day that aren’t allowed the next

What NOT to do:

• Don’t train when you’re frustrated
• Don’t repeat commands endlessly (say it once, then help your dog succeed)
• Don’t punish your dog for not understanding
• Don’t compare your dog to others—every dog learns at their own pace

Common First-Week Challenges

Challenge: My dog won’t eat.

This is extremely common. Dogs often don’t eat normally for the first few days due to stress.

Solutions:

• Try adding warm water to kibble to make it more aromatic
• Offer small amounts by hand
• Try a different bowl (some dogs dislike metal bowls)
• Ensure the feeding area is quiet and stress-free
• Give them space—don’t hover while they eat
• If your dog hasn’t eaten anything in 24 hours, call your vet
• If they go 48 hours without eating, see your vet immediately

Challenge: My dog is hiding and won’t interact.

This is normal, especially for shelter dogs. Some dogs need significant decompression time.

Solutions:

• Give them space—don’t force interaction
• Sit quietly near (not hovering over) them
• Toss treats gently in their direction without eye contact
• Let them come to you when they’re ready
• Keep the environment calm and quiet
• Avoid having visitors for at least a week
• Some dogs need days or even weeks to feel safe

Challenge: My dog won’t walk on the leash.

Some dogs have never been leash trained or have negative associations with leashes.

Solutions:

• Start inside with no pressure—just let them wear the leash
• Reward them for allowing you to clip on the leash
• Practice walking a few steps inside, rewarding every step
• Don’t pull or drag them
• Use high-value treats to lure them forward
• Keep initial outdoor walks very short
• If they freeze, stay calm, encourage gently, and be patient

Challenge: My dog is having frequent accidents.

This is expected and should improve with consistency.

Solutions:

• Increase bathroom break frequency
• Supervise more closely (tether them to you if needed)
• Clean all accidents thoroughly with enzymatic cleaner
• Keep a detailed log of when accidents happen to identify patterns
• Ensure you’re